Webbing Clothes Moth
Shiny gold or buff in color
Tuft of reddish hair on head
Long, fringed hairs at wing tips
Adult moths are ~ ¼” in length
Larvae are ~ ¼ - ⅓” in length
Larvae are creamy white with dark heads
Larvae hide under a silken mat when feeding
Webbing Clothes Moth
Casemaking Clothes Moth
Brown in color
Tuft of light hairs on head
Three dark spots on wings
Adults and larvae are slightly smaller than webbing clothes moths
Larvae build and live in a silken tube that they carry with them when feeding
The tube/case takes on the color of the infested items

The two most common species of clothes moths (a.k.a. wool moths) are the webbing clothes moth (Tineola bisselliella) found across the entire U.S., and the casemaking clothes moth (Tineola pellionella) found primarily in the southern U.S. Clothing moths lay eggs on woolen or silk clothes, furniture, carpet, rugs, upholstery, blankets, etc. They’ll also hit furs, anything stuffed with down, and mounted animals. Basically, clothes moth larvae will eat anything that tastes like dead animal and is left undisturbed for long periods of time. Keep in mind: just because you see moths on something doesn’t mean they’re clothes moths. Clothes moths are commonly confused with pantry moths. Compare what you’re seeing with the images/descriptions to the left and with those found in our Pantry Moth Control article.
Conduct a thorough inspection. If you find yourself in the throes of a clothes moth infestation, it’s critical to locate the site of the main infestation. These are often located in areas like under rugs and in storage areas. Finding the main infestation site, unfortunately, doesn’t give you license to discontinue searching. The probability of finding areas of lesser infestations prohibit this. You’ll need to go over your entire home with a fine-tooth comb. Search every box and every tote in every closet and storage area. When searching basements, attics, and crawlspaces, be on the lookout for rodent/bird nests, as these, too, can house clothes moth infestations. If mounted deer heads, ducks, and/or other dead animals adorn your house, look those over, too.
Trash or treat infested items. Throw badly infested items away. It’s a quick way to get rid of clothes moths, larvae, and eggs. If you can’t bring yourself to toss them, and if it’s appropriate to do so, take them to be cleaned. Dry cleaning will kill clothes moths in any stage of life. If items can’t be dry cleaned, a vigorous shaking and brushing followed by a simple airing will kill moths and larvae and destroy eggs and cocoons. After shaking, brush everywhere, especially under cuffs, collars and other protected areas. After brushing, hang items in the sun. If larvae can’t find shelter from it, they’ll drop out. For killing clothes moths with heat and cold, see the Natural Clothes Moth Control section to the right.
Change your storage habits. The moment treatment for infested items has been completed, get those items properly stored. Keep items at risk of reinfestation in large zipper bags, plastic bags that you can tie closed and tape shut, cardboard boxes from non-infested areas that have had ALL seems sealed with packing tape, tightly closing chests, or plastic totes. To increase the efficiency of totes, affix strips of adhesive foam around the edges of the opening to create a tighter seal. Once the foam is on, attach the lids and tape them on so there are no gaps between the lids and the totes. Do the same for all at-risk stored items. Remove them from their current containers and get them stored properly.
Clean house. Once the items that clothes moths find most desirable have been made inaccessible, remove secondary food sources and laying grounds. This is done with simple, albeit time consumptive, cleaning. Because clothes moth larvae will eat animal and pet hair, dander, lint, and other organics, the vacuum cleaner is an indispensable tool for getting rid of clothes moths. Vacuum all floors, paying special attention to places where those things collect, like under furniture and furniture cushions, under baseboard heaters, cracks between floorboards, closet shelves, closet floors, drawers where fabrics are kept, vents, and air ducts. Because all animal products are fair game, make certain to find and remove any bird, rodent, bee, and wasp nests and carcasses and vacuum where they were.
Scatter diatomaceous earth. Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a very effective and natural clothes moth treatment product that can be picked up from most garden stores, many hardware stores, and many online retailers. This stuff is the powdered, fossilized remains of aquatic diatoms. While it’s relatively harmless to humans and pets (just wear a dust mask when applying), the sharp edges of the diatoms inflict minute lacerations on the bodies of numerous pests, including clothes moth larvae, that cause them to dry out and die. Use a hand duster to dust everywhere you cleaned and vacuumed. And when I say everywhere, I do mean everywhere: closets, drawers, shelves, under rugs, attics, crawlspaces . . . everywhere.
Purchase moth traps. Moth traps attract adult clothes moths with pheromones. Moths detect the pheromones, think they’re gonna get some booty, fly into the trap, get stuck in sticky goo, and die horribly. It’s fantastic. Moth traps aren’t usually enough to completely control clothes moth infestations, but they certainly help and they’re useful for monitoring the progress of your clothes moth extermination regimen. Place clothes moth traps in areas where infestations are worst. When purchasing traps, make sure you get the right trap for the right species of clothes moth (see left for identification). Look for NoSurvivor Traps or moth traps made by Safer, Pro-Pest, or BioCare.
Use moth repellents and fumigants. Most of us are familiar with moth balls. If you’re not, think back to the last time you gave your grandma a hug and concentrate on how she smells/used to smell. Got it? That’s mothballs. When used correctly, moth balls, be they made from the now less common napthalene or the recently more common PDB (p-Dichlorobenzene) actually work quite well both as moth repellents and moth fumigants. The thing is, you can’t expect them to be effective in large, open areas. Use moth balls in small enclosed areas like the tight-sealing totes you use to store items you want protected.

Exterminate clothes moths with cold. Place infested items into a large plastic bag, squeeze as much air out of it as possible, seal it tightly, and place it in the freezer next to your crown roast. At -22∘F, all life stages will be dead after four days. At 0∘F, all life stages will be dead after two weeks.

Kill clothes moths with heat. Placing infested items in areas with temps between 106-120∘F for four hours will kill clothes moths in any stage of life. Creating an area with these conditions is as easy as emptying a closet, placing a space heater in there, setting it on high, and closing the door. Once the proper temperature is reached, place infested items on a stable shelf above the heater. If you live in warmer climates or infestations occur during the summer, you may also be able to use a hot attic to the same effect. Just check the temp up there.

Destroy them with pyrethrins. Derived from the powdered heads of certain chrysanthemum flowers, pyrethrins are an amazing natural insecticide that will kill the crap out of clothes moths. Readily available as fogs, sprays, aerosols, or dips, pyrethrins can be used to treat large areas, small areas, for spot treatments, or for, well, dipping things in. I would caution you, however, to not use pyrethrins on items of historical, scientific, monetary, or sentimental value.

Keep humidity down. Lowering the relative humidity of your home to below 55% is a simple and effective clothes moth control technique. Do so by running the furnace or air conditioner and setting up several dehumidifiers throughout the home. Lowering humidity won’t take care of the problem on its own, but it will improve your chances of success with other control methods.