Fire ants can be red, nearly black, reddish brown, orange, or orange with black abdomens. They're at least three millimeters in length and have stingers and two petiole nodes. Identify their mounds by poking a stick into them and backing off. If the ants swarm up the stick, they're probably fire ants.
Red Imported Fire Ant (RIFA)
Fire Ant Mound Pic
Fire Ant Stings

When fire ants sting, they generally climb on board, clamp on with their mandibles, and insert their stingers. Fire ant venom (aside from burning like hell and causing nasty red bumps and white pustules) can, in rare cases, cause anaphylactic shock. Not only do fire ants harm humans and pets, but their highly aggressive and competitive natures lead them to decimate ecosystems by killing and eating insects, invertebrates, birds, lizards, amphibians, and even plants. They're also agricultural pests, known for damaging crops and gardens. There are several different species of fire ants in the United States, and while the following information will work for any of them, the focus here is on the most pestiferous—the red imported fire ant.
Locate all fire ant mounds. The best method for killing fire ants is known as the Two-Step Method (see below). Before controlling, however, you should locate them. If you don't already know where the mounds are, find them. In the late morning or late afternoon (when ants are doing their most vigorous foraging) place a can of wet pet food or a tray of jelly in the yard, and let the ants find it. When they do, choose some ants that are carrying bait and follow them back to the mound. It will be boring—do it anyway. There may be more than one mound, so do this in several places throughout the yard.
Initiate Step One of the Two-Step Method. This is the spreading of a slow-acting, granular bait in your yard. I stress "slow acting" because you don't want the fire ants to die before they can collect the bait and deliver it back to the mound where the queen, larvae, and rest of the colony can be affected. Dump your fire ant bait (Advion Fire Ant Bait, Amdro Fire Ant Bait, or Spectracide Fire Ant Killer Plus Preventer Bait Once & Done) in a fertilizer spreader and spread it around your yard in the mid-morning or late afternoon; this is when the fire ants do their most vigorous foraging. Do this when you know the weather will be dry for forty-eight hours.
Initiate Step Two. Go after the fire ant mounds two or three days after spreading the bait. This can be done in several ways. You may choose to use a granule whose efficacy is increased by watering (Ortho Max Fire Ant Mound Drench), a powder that is collected by foragers and then taken into the mound (Amdro Fire Strike Mound Treatment), or a liquid drench designed to be poured over the mound (Orange Guard Fire Ant Control). It's often recommended with liquid drenches that, directly before application, you poke holes in the mound with a long, thin object such as a stick to increase saturation. Use liquid drenches on cooler days when the fire ants are nearer the surface.
Continue with season-long fire ant control. The Two-Step Method mentioned above will do an amazing job of killing fire ant colonies currently invading your property. It won't, however, keep them from re-infesting. The most effective way to keep new fire ant colonies from moving back in is to occasionally (two to four times a season, with a final application in the late fall before winter) spread a dual-action fire ant bait throughout your yard. I recommend using Extinguish Plus Fire Ant Bait or Amdro Fire Strike Dual Formula. Both contain an insecticide for a quick knock down as well as an insect growth regulator (IGR) for sterilization. Use a fertilizer spreader for application.
Protect plants from fire ants. Fire ants are omnivores. While they prefer proteinous meals, they'll sometimes attempt to satiate their hunger with your garden plants. Fire ants will eat some fruit and foliage but generally only do so when there's prior damage. More often fire ants will girdle plants (which results in more damage). Protect plants by keeping all branches and foliage trimmed up and away from the ground, so fire ants can't gain access. To avoid girdling, lay sticky traps around the stems or spray the stems with a sorptive aerosol like Tri-Die. It's formulated with silica dust (along with pyrethrins), and kills ants by absorbing their waxy coating and causing them to dry out, or desiccate.
Fire ants don't generally enter homes, but when they do, it's important to shut them down quickly. Apart from their sting, fire ants also chew sealant off of electrical wires—not safe. The following tips will help you control fire ants in the house.

Boiling water. It may take a few tries, but dousing a fire ant mound with three gallons of boiling water will destroy the colony. Do this on cooler days—ants are nearer the surface. Be careful and don't panic and burn yourself.

Homemade boric acid baits. Mix three cups water, one cup sugar, and four teaspoons Borax. Put this in several shallow containers and place around desired area. Alternately, mix Borax with a can of wet pet food. If you find lots of dead ants near your bait stations, reduce the amount of Borax; you want them to live long enough to get the bait back to the colony.

Insecticidal soap drenches. Insecticidal soaps kill insects by dissolving their waxy layer of cuticles and breaking down cell membranes (and move those ants to that great ant mound in the sky). Look for brands like Safer and Bon-Neem and follow "Step Two" on the left for liquid drenches.

Green Light products. Green Light carries two products: Fire Ant Killer with Spinosad and Fire Ant Control with Conserve. Both are OMRI listed and highly recommended. Spinosad is an insecticidal mixture of a couple of by-products produced by the fermentation of the bacteria Saccharopolyspora spinosa, and conserve uses Spinosad as one of its main ingredients.