Hornet Control

You will need protective gear. If you go into battle unprepared, you will be very sorry. As a beekeeper, I know I would put on my bee suit and still expect to get stung. You could fashion some sort of protective costume for yourself out of coveralls and a screen bonnet that is kept off the skin, usually with a wide brimmed hat. I would be sure to tape up my pant legs and wear gloves. One of the ways wasps differ from bees is that they don't have a barbed stinger, and they will sting you repeatedly while you flail about like an idiot. This is dangerous in that it can lead to a potentially deadly allergic reaction—which is bad.

What kind of hornet is it? One of the easiest ways to tell what kind of hornet you are dealing with is to look at where they are living. If it is a small umbrella- or round-shaped paper nest hanging under a roof eave, it is probably some kind of non-aggressive paper wasp. If it is a larger, pear-shaped, grey paper nest hanging from a tree or under a roof whose inhabitants are vindictive and overprotective, you've got hornets. If the nest is inside a wall or tree, or even underground, and the wasps are very aggressive, you have yellow jackets. If the nest is inside of some kind of structure, and they are orange in color and hairy, then you probably have honey bees.

Physically remove the nest. For the very brave or very stupid, this method will not involve poisons and will leave the nest intact (for scientific purposes). In addition to the protective suit, I would also gather a flashlight, a landing net for fishing, a garbage bag that will fit inside of the net, some kind of long scraping or cutting tool, and a ladder, if you need one. Decide how you are going to get the nest into the bag without tearing it on branches—an airtight bag is critical. When it is dark and a cooler temperature, cut or knock the nest into the bag, close it tightly, and freeze or leave in the sun for a couple of days.

Use wasp killing sprays; it's easier. The variety you choose will be dependent upon the variety of hornet, the placement of the nest, and your plan of attack. If it's a nest that is up in the air or is best attacked from a distant, more easily abandoned position, then you will want a projectile wasp spray, which has a greater range. The best time to go after any of these eusocial stinging insects is in the cooler, darker hours of the day (evening or morning), as they will all be inside of their nest, trying to keep things warm. Aim the wasp spray at the opening of the nest and give it a good soaking. Repeat the next day if there's activity.

Hornet removal from within a structure is trickier. If there is a wasp nest inside of a building, it is more likely to be a yellow jacket—like a German wasp or common wasp—than a hornet. Treating nests inside of enclosed spaces is tougher because you can't see where the nest is to spray accurately and effectively. A professional might use some kind of fumigator, but at home you can try using the misting rather than the foaming type of wasp spray. Another option would be to use a powder-based insecticide like Sevin dust that will float in the air space and coat the nest. Seal up any holes after treatment, continue to monitor for activity, and repeat if necessary.

Use insect mesh to prevent more hornets. There will always be hornets living around you somewhere, especially if you live anywhere near a park, trees, bushes, or flowers. Happily, there are things you can do to discourage them from building a nest on your house. Hornets tend to like the sheltered area a gabled eave or soffit provides to build their delicate, hanging paper nests. There is an insect mesh product available that you can install in wasp-prone areas, which should dissuade them from moving in. You also need to think about attractants like fruit trees, manure, decomposing animals, or garbage. All of those food sources will tend to bring in hornets and other wasps.