Raccoon Control

Defend the honor of your garbage can. Nothing invites raccoon problems like a stinky, unsecured trash can. A nice sturdy container in a garbage can rack will be raccoon-proof as long as the lid is secure. Some do this with bungee cords and others just place a nice cinder block on top. Another option is purchasing a raccoon-proof garbage can (see right), which will of course keep out other pests as well. Be sure to clean your trash can from time to time, as the putrid smell of decay inspires feast fantasies in the raccoon heart.

Raccoon-proof your property. Beyond your garbage can, you should look to limit other sources of raccoon food. Bird feeders—an easy source of protein for coons—should be brought inside at night or replaced with raccoon-resistant feeders. Fruit trees and gardens should be well maintained—fallen fruits and veggies attract pests of all kinds, especially raccoons. Get rid of brush and wood piles as these are common raccoon dens. Keep branches at least five to ten feet away from your roof. You can also apply skirting to trees that are too weak or difficult to trim. Know that raccoons can also use trellises or arbors to gain roof access.

Use raccoon repellents (short-term solution). Predator urine (sporting goods stores), ammonia, or even dog hair will work as a raccoon repellent, but probably not for long. This tactic is best used to buy time—to keep raccoons out of your yard, attic, or basement while you work to patch up and raccoon-proof your property. But it is important to remember that raccoons are not just dumb beasts. They are one of the most adaptable, intelligent pests around. When they see that there is no danger, they'll learn to ignore your tricks.

Pursue live raccoon trapping to remove problem raccoons. Live traps are an ideal way to deal with stubborn, invasive raccoons. You'll need a sturdy metal cage trap (one that measures 12 x 12 x 32 inches)—preferably one that has only one door (see right). Place the trap near your garbage can, where you've seen activity, or next to its entrance to your home. Fruit, sweet corn, fried bacon, cat food—almost anything will work as raccoon bait. Once you've trapped the raccoon, call animal control (the police), a professional pest control service, or your local fish and wildlife department. Unless you contact a professional that has a permit to release the raccoon, it will be killed.

Protect gardens, ponds, and property with a simple electric fence. Electric fences are a highly effective form of raccoon control, as raccoons are very sensitive to electric shock. There are kits you can buy specifically designed for raccoons and similar pests (see right), but you can also rig existing fences with charged wires. Simply add one wire about eight inches up off the ground and another eight inches away from the fence and connect the wire to a fence charger. They usually only need to be turned on at night when raccoons are active. Just be sure to put up signs advertising the nature of your new fence.

Control raccoons through harassment and intimidation. Deterrents that employ noise and light are perfect for evicting a raccoon in an attic, crawl space, or basement (sometimes a chimney). Just make sure to set up after the raccoon has left for a nightly raid. Filling the raccoon's space with flood lights and a stereo will work. Many raccoon control experts advise using talk radio, as raccoons avoid human voices. The pest control market is rife with motion-sensing products that employ noise and lights (sometimes water). Whichever raccoon-control devices you choose, be sure to move things around or switch up your tactics from time to time—raccoons learn quickly what will and won't hurt them.