When trying to identify whether you're dealing with the Norway rat (a.k.a. sewer rat, water rat, or barn rat) or the black rat (a.k.a. roof rat or house rat), the tail is telling. In Norway rats the tail is shorter than the body and the reverse is true for black rats.
Black Rat
Norway Rat

It's hard to think of a pest more loathed. Rats chew through walls, support beams, doors, and even electrical wiring. Besides destroying property and starting electrical fires, rats are disgusting. They defecate up to fifty times a day and they are constantly urinating. And while disease isn't as serious a concern as it once was, rats—and the ticks and fleas they harbor—are still guilty of spreading a splendid array of maladies: allergies, plague, typhus, Weil's disease, food poisoning, and rat-bite fever. Yeah, rats do bite—mostly babies and defenseless children. We cannot abide this. The rats must go. Below you'll find all the tools you'll need to initiate the ratpocalypse.
Investigate the size and scope of your rat problem. Do some looking around your property. Investigate your basement, crawl space, and attic (black rat territory). Look for the telltale signs of rats: rat droppings, gnawing damage, grease marks (from oil and grime on fur), and rat runs—areas along walls, beams, and corners that stand out because of constant use by rats. Knowing where the rats are active will allow you to focus your rat control methods—especially trapping. Outside your property, look for places the rats may be using for entry and for signs of rat nests. Pay special attention to foundations and areas with heavy cover or vegetation.
Rat proof your home—build them out! It's the most effective, practical, long-term strategy for rat control and it's often ignored. Even if you were to kill all the rats in your home or property using poisons, traps, and laser-guided missiles, they'll be back unless you rat-proof. If you're not a handy person—if you don't own a Phillips screwdriver and you can't make a paper plane—then you'll want to contact a pest control firm that specializes in pest proofing. You'll find the most effective rat-proofing methods at the bottom of the page.
Secure your trash and organic waste. Whether you're striving for indoor or outdoor rat control, you need to defend your garbage can's honor. Outside, you'll want a metal garbage can or a very hard plastic one with a secure lid. Metal can lids should be firmly secured using bungee or elastic cords. In a pinch (or bout of laziness), you can place a heavy object on top. It also helps to use a garbage can rack (12–15 inches off the ground) so dogs, raccoons, skunks, and neighbors don't tip them over. Similarly, indoor garbage cans should be made of a sturdy material and have tight-fitting lids. Very carefully dispose of food scraps and organic waste.
Remove other rat food and water sources. Don't be a lazy gardener—promptly remove fallen nuts, fruits, and vegetables. Don't leave pet food out all day. Feed your retriever and then store the food in rat-proof containers. You also need to clean up pet feces, as rats dig through waste looking for undigested goodies. Know that bird feeders often become rat and squirrel feeders. You can replace your current ones with rodent-resistant models or put your feeders away at night. And as far as water sources go, look to get rid of standing water in low spots, broken gutters, and empty containers. Also insulate and repair leaky pipes. Leaky pipes and condensation can slake the thirst of more than a few rats.
Kill rats with snap traps. It's the most popular of all rat control strategies, but few do it well. Here are some tips for trapping rats: (1) Practice pre-baiting. Set the traps out for a few nights with bait, but without setting them. Let the rats grow fond of these new objects before making them lethal. (2) The first night the traps go lethal, set out as many as possible. Research has shown that traps are always most effective the first few night of use. (3) Place traps near rat nests, along walls, corners, rat runways, and near signs of rat activity. For climbing (black) rats, Velcro or nail traps to beams and rafters. (4) Never wash a successful trap. Full of rat pheromones, these traps are more likely to work again.
Use rat poisons carefully and only in certain situations. Rat poisons—rodentcides—can be used in situations where rapid control is needed, as with severe infestations or a case of disease-spreading rats. Rat poisons come in the form of bait, which should be placed in protective bait stations to keep non-targets from dying and suing you. It is my opinion that if you are new to pest control and have never used poisons, you should seek help from a professional. Poisons certainly don't make much sense for homeowners, as a dead rat is likely to get lodged in your wall, attic, or crawl space, where it will fester, stink, and attract other pests.
Make your property unfriendly to rats. When rodents are shopping for real estate, they want thick, heavy vegetation. It provides rats cover from the hungry eyes of predators, food in the form of insects, seeds, and vegetation, and moisture. In such a yard, they also have plenty of grasses and debris for building nests. Mow your lawn often and keep shrubs and ornamentals neat and trim. Keep tree branches away from your roof, fence lines, utility wires, and the ground (especially important for roof rats). And know that a clean, bush- and shrub-free border is best around your home. Also, diligently maintain ivy and palms—roof rats are especially fond of these.
Seal all cracks and holes around the home. A rat can fit into any spot they can squeeze their skulls through (about a half-inch). For a temporary fix, you can stuff holes with steel wool or copper mesh. Holes in foundations should be repaired with mortar. To keep the rats from messing with the wet mortar, mix it with broken glass.
Rat proof around basements, foundations, porches, and borders. Rats can be deterred from burrowing underneath buildings by creating a border of pebble gravel a foot wide and a foot deep. Similarly, you can deter rats with iron sheets or hardware cloth. Bury the cloth two-feet deep. It should extend horizontally away from the building for at least six inches to prevent rats from tunneling under the barrier.
Rat proof wooden doors. Iron flashings or metal channels can be attached to the bottoms of doors and door sills to keep the rat menace outside.
Rat proof incoming pipes, vents, and drains. Rats often get inside buildings through holes where pipes meet walls. Create a seal around pipes using cement for brick or stone walls and consider a 24-gauge sheet iron collar for wood surfaces. Prevent rats from entering vents by installing galvanized wire cloth. A simple metal drain cover (sealed) will keep rats from entering through floor drains.
Prevent climbing. Rodent guards or metal sheets can be installed over vertical wires and plumbing to prevent rats from climbing.

The classic snap trap. It's the most widely used form of rat trap. The traps are baited and when the rats hit the trigger they go straight to rat heaven. Think of a dull guillotine. Snap traps are inexpensive and versatile. They can be nailed to rafters and posts, attached to pipes with rubber bands, or just used on the floor. Housings can be purchased (Protecta Rat Bait Station) or built to protect children and pets from these traps.

Sticky traps. Glue traps are nice in that they are cheap and help monitor for insect pests. They are best used for young, immature rats that usually escape spring traps. However, glue traps are not a humane form of rat control. Rats can survive for some time in a glue trap. If you don't check them often, the trapped rat will die from exhaustion, starvation, or dehydration. That's some bad karma.

Electric traps. The Victor Electronic Rat Trap and the Agri Rat Zapper Ultra are both good examples of electric rat traps. One advantage of this trap — one the companies are very vocal about — is that you don't have to touch the dead rat. (Seriously, man up! As if you wouldn't use gloves.) You just slide its lifeless carcass out of the machine when the "dead rat" light is on. But these traps are expensive ($40–$50 per machine) and trapping rats requires the use of many traps.