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Spider Mite Control

Eric Ronning

Identification

Length of 1/75 to 1/50 of an inch; eight legs; fine hairs on the abdomen; many colors including red, green, yellow, orange, brown, and greenish yellow with a largish black spot on either side of the abdomen (two-spotted spider mites). Eggs are usually round and translucent white or ivory but may be oval and an orange-red color.

Red Spider Mite

Two-Spotted Spider Mites

Spider Mite Eggs

There are around 1,600 different species of spider mites (family Tetranychidae), and they all have one thing on their minds: destruction. A spider mite infestation can be found on field crops, home garden vegetables, fruit trees, and even indoor plants. The scary part is that they are so tiny that they can actually travel on air currents with the help of little parachutes they spin themselves. Once they find your plants, they move to the undersides of the leaves, pierce them, and suck out the juices. If the infestation is bad enough, this can weaken the plant, cause leaves to drop, stunt fruit, and make the plant more susceptible to secondary infection.

Controlling Spider Mites

Be 100 percent certain you are dealing with spider mites. After reading the description to the left, use a 10x magnification hand lens to inspect leaves for spider mites. Concentrate on the undersides of leaves. While the spider mites themselves can be difficult to spot, spider mite damage is not. Look for little yellow specks on leaves, bronzing of leaves, leaves turning white or yellow with brown edges, and dropped leaves. Other indications are webbing on the leaves, leaf axils, the areas between leaves, and in branch crotches. Look also for spider mite eggs.

Try pruning/disposal. If they're found, one good way to kill spider mites is to prune away heavily infested leaves, flowers, and/or branches. After removal, drop them into a bucket of soapy water or into a plastic bag. You won't be able to kill all of the spider mites with this method, but you will be able to put a serious dent in the population. Also, don't be afraid to just dispose of plants with spider mite infestations. Unless the plant is monetarily or sentimentally valuable, there's no reason to be a hero. Spider mites are quite adept at spreading from plant to plant, so disposing of infested plants will save you time and money in the long run.

Fight mites with mites. The best way to kill spider mites is with predatory mites. Predatory mites can be purchased from many garden shops and online retailers. The best things about them, aside from the fact that they eat the hell out of spider mites, are that they won't leave the plants, and they don't care about people. They simply will not bite you, your kids, or your hamster. Most places sell predatory mites in a variety pack called the "Triple Threat." The more types of predatory mites you have, the more types of spider mites they eat.

Kill spider mites with a miticide. Miticides are pesticides designed to kill mites. There are many different brands with many different active ingredients. Because spider mites commonly develop resistance to miticides, the variety is a good thing. If one brand works now, there's no guarantee it'll work later. Pick up several brands at once so you don't have to go back to the store if the first one doesn't work or quits working. When picking a mite killer, read the label to make sure spider mites are listed as a target species. Some of the more popular brands with the best customer reviews are Avid, Akari, Kelthane, Mavrik, Judo, Talstar, TetraSan, Floramite, Forbid, Orthene, and Sanmite.

Get rid of spider mites with horticultural oil. Most horticultural oils are made from vegetable oils, not petroleum, but it doesn't hurt to check the label. There are two different types of horticultural oil: summer and dormant. Use summer oil during the growing season when plants still have foliage, and use dormant oil in the fall to kill spider mites that are trying to hide until spring. These oils kill spider mites by clogging their spiracles (breathing apparati).

Control indoor spider mites through temperature and humidity manipulation. Spider mites feed and multiply best when temperatures are high and humidity is low. Figure out what temperature range your plants do best in, and adjust the ambient temperature to the lowest end of that range. Never place plants near heaters, radiators, or air vents. Draw the blinds during midday or move plants out of midday sun. Increase local humidity by misting plants two to three times daily, covering soil with sphagnum moss, setting plants above water trays or large pots of water, or setting up humidifiers.

More Tips for Getting Rid of Spider Mites

  • Monitor for spider mites frequently. Check closely for spider mites at least once a week during the growing season for outdoor plants, or year-round for indoor plants.
  • Keep plants properly watered. Over- or underwatering can cause stress to plants. Stressed plants are far more vulnerable to attack and damage.
  • Quarantine new plants. Do this for a minimum of 10 days before putting them near other plants. Check them every day with a 10x hand lens.
  • Lay off the pesticides. Many insecticides kill everything but spider mites, including many natural spider mite predators. This can allow spider mite populations to explode. Use them only as spot treatments.
  • Keep the garden picked up. Tidy up the garden, or spider mites can use dropped leaves and branches from around the garden to hide during winter.
  • Plant spider mite repellent flora. Plant garlic, onion, and cloves in with the other plants in your garden rows. It's not a perfect solution and won't repel all spider mites, but it will help.

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