Termite Control

Peder Hoyum

Identification

Termites range in length from ⅛ inch to ¼ inch, depending on maturity. Subterranean worker termites, which are the most common species in North America, are creamy white in color, with six legs and brown heads. Queen and king termites can grow as large as two inches.

Termites

Termites Tunneling

Termite Damage

Termites belong to a unique group of insects called Isoptera. Much like their cousins—ants, wasps, and bees—of the Hymenoptera group, they are eusocial insects. This means that they have a social hierarchy integrated into their genes: a caste system with the procreative queen at the top and the sterile workers at the bottom. Due to their penchant for warm, moist environments, termites don't eat from one side to the other. They like to preserve an outer shell and just eat what's underneath. It's hard to know if you have a problem until it is too late, but with a little bit of knowledge, and some control tricks, you can take some simple steps to prevent a termite infestation before it becomes a problem.

Controlling Termites

Inspect your home for termites. This could be the most important step in controlling termites, especially if you want to know that you have a problem before your house falls down. Sadly, it is often the case that a termite infestation isn't recognized until it is much too late. By that time, the expense of repairing the damage is going to far outweigh the cost of doing some preventative inspections and controlling a smaller infestation before it grows to a dangerous level.

Barriers keep termites out of your house. In an ideal world, you would incorporate these barriers into the design and construction of your house. Many of them can be added later, though it is going to cost you. Aggregate barriers, or basaltic sand barriers, are placed in a trench between the wall of the foundation and the ground in your yard. This will form a nearly impenetrable layer of protection around your house without using any chemicals. Stainless steel mesh barriers work just like the screen in your door. This can be wrapped around the foundation, especially around areas that could have problems such as where floor joists meet concrete, openings for drain pipes, exposed wood, and around windows.

Baiting termites is an effective control method. You will want to set your untreated baits around the periphery of the building you are hoping to control, partially burying the bait, but still leaving it quickly accessible to you. Keep an eye on them; the trick with baiting is patience. Once you've verified that you have termites in your area, the temptation might be to apply some kind of poison right away—don't. When the untreated bait is nearly consumed, the time has come to poison the well. Use a commercially available bait like Hexapro or Sentricon for best results. These slow-acting poisons interfere with the molting process and can effect the development of larval termites.

Poisons are another option for killing termites. Dominion 2L is an insecticide that contains a nicotine-like chemical and is a short-term poison similar to Premise. Bayer Granules use the same chemical as Dominion and Premise but are sprinkled around your foundation and then watered into the soil. Permethrin/Bonide is an insecticide similar to pyrethrum, which is derived from chrysanthemums. This synthetic version is more concentrated and lasts much longer. Cyper TC is an effective repellent product that can be applied as you're building your house and can also be used to form a barrier around your foundation. Talstar P is an insecticide that contains a chemical called bifrenthrin, is used to repel a wide variety of insects, and lasts for about three months.

Have a professional remove termites. Many of the most effective termite control products can only be handled by licensed professionals. After an inspection, they should be able to tell you fairly quickly how bad off you are and what they are going to do to fix it. This will include creating a chemical barrier with products like Termidor or Premise. The pest control professional will apply this around the foundation and framing of the home, inside and outside. They will often drill into concrete basement floors to apply it under the house. If applied correctly, these chemicals will ensure almost one-hundred percent elimination for a period of time. As with most things, there are limits, and a reapplication might be necessary every couple of months.

Steps and Signs When Inspecting for Termites

Be prepared. You should come to the fight armed with a flashlight—or, better yet, one of those headband flashlights—a probing tool of some sort (like a screwdriver), and a way to take notes wouldn't be a bad idea either. Wear protective clothes that you don't mind getting dirty.
Make a plan. It is a good idea to follow around the entire circumference of your building in succession, inside and out. Be observant, and take notes. Look out for snakes, exposed nails, and things that can hurt you.
Look for wings. This may seem weird, but when termites swarm, the winged alate termites fly out to find a new nest. When they arrive, they shed their wings. So, if you're seeing wings, you've probably got a problem.
Look for signs of digging and their waste. They use this substance to create external working tunnels and to block holes. It looks like clay or mud and should be pretty obvious in a basement that is mostly made of concrete and wood. Look for lines of dry mud that go from the wooden structure, down the wall, and into the ground or floor. Also look for holes.
Poke around and try thumping it with the handle of your screwdriver. Does it sound soft or hollow? Now try flaking away some of the wood. If it falls away revealing a swiss cheese looking mess of powdered wood, or if it is crawling with little white insect, you have a problem.
If you see them, leave them for now. Termites spook easily. If you mess with them too much, they might move on to another area, and you will have missed an opportunity to treat an established infestation.
Evaluate. Is there a lot of wood damage? If so, you should probably consult a structural engineer, unless you have expertise in this area.

Natural Termite Control

Cardboard box trap. One trick you might try if you want to reduce the population of termites in an area is the cardboard box trap. Acquire a shallow plastic tote of some sort and layer the inside with a dozen moistened strips of cardboard. Place it in an area that you suspect has a termite problem. Once there is a significant number of termites in the tote remove and destroy.

Food source. It seems logical enough: If you don't want termites to come around your house, keep the area around your house clear of debris that is going to attract them. This means wood piles, decomposing brush, or logs—any kind of cellulosic or plant material is going to bring in insects that want to eat it.

Building materials. It worked for the third little piggy, and it might work for you: If you live in a termite-prone area, don't build your house out of untreated wood. If you are looking to buy a house in a termite-prone area, be very cautious about buying one that has an untreated wood substructure.